Free Locksmith Lesson #3 - Shimming Open the Cylinder

Sometimes, when you have to re-key a lock cylinder that does not have an operating key, you must either pick it open - sometimes very difficult - or you can shim it open. In this lesson, I will teach you how to shim open a cylinder.

What you will need:

1. A standard Kwikset knob with the cylinder taken out.
2. A package of steel lock shims.
3. A Kwikset key blank.
4. A lock pick with the tip ground off.
5. A follower.
6. Lesson #1 and #2.

Our goal here is to get the plug in the shell too turn a quarter turn. We cannot do it without a key. So, we will stick a thin piece of shim in the rear of the cylinder and, using a pick in the front of the cylinder, lift the last tumbler up until it reaches the shear line. During this time, we will be pushing in on the shim, but lightly, so that, when the shear line is reached, the shim will slip forward and separate the bottom pin from the top pin. We will proceed then to the next pin, and the next, until the shim has separated every top and bottom pin in the lock cylinder. Then, after that is done, we can use any flat-bladed object to turn the plug.

Insert the shim between the bottom and top pins at rear of cylinder

If you do not want to use a pick, you can use a key blank. When you insert a blank, all of the pins are raised up into the top portion of the shell. 

Insert your shim in the rear of the lock and maintain a little pressure. Then, slip your key out slowly until your shim shoots forward. Sometimes, you will have to do a little back and forth with the key and the shim.

Using a pick to lift the tumblers

Once the plug turns in the shell, make sure it is turned a quarter turn. Then, insert your follower, and push the plug out of the shell.

Now, let's look at some facts about shimming. 

1. If you are working on a commercial lever and need to get the cylinder out, you must either have a key, pick it open, or use a lever removal tool (do a search for A-1 locksmith tools). Once the cylinder is removed, you can shim it.
2. Do not try to shim open high-security lock cylinders.
3. The Kwikset cylinder can be taken apart by removing the top cap. You won't be so lucky and the vast majority of lock cylinders. Schlage's residential cylinders have a floating cap. If you remove it, which I think you should try, you could damage it.
4. Most commercial lock cylinders, if they cannot be shimmed open, must be replaced. Also, it is worth noting that some higher-quality lock cylinders like Corbin-Russwin have spool-shaped top pins which will make it hard to shim. What happens is that your shim will advance and jam because it didn't find the shear line, instead it got caught on a spool. If you suspect you are shimming a cylinder with spool top pins, just be sure you raise the bottom pins up all the way so that you shim gets into the sheer line at the top of the bottom pin before your shim hits the spool top pin.
5. Be sure to practice this and get a feel for it. It won't take you long to learn this trick. Be sure to try doing it with the pick and the key blank.

Key Doesn't Turn Properly in Dor-O-Matic Exit Device

I'm going to have to say it. The Dor-O-Matic 1690 exit device is built cheap, sold cheap, and needs ongoing care in order to work properly. You have loose and lost screws, caps falling off, pinion gears breaking, and dogging shafts stripping out like butter under a hot knife. I've made a lot of money servicing these devices as a result. If you're a handyman, you can, too - as long as you know the tricks.

If your key doesn't work properly in your Dor-O-Matic bar, it could be one of two things.

1. Your key cylinder and/or your key is worn out. Lock cylinders use soft brass pins (tumblers) and the action of the key against them is like a saw on wood. The key is a poor copy, or the cylinder pins are worn out, if you insert your key and it doesn't turn unless you jiggle it. Also, the lock cylinders that come with these devices are of the poorest, cast-metal quality. If this is the problem, you need a new RIM CYLINDER, or you can call the locksmith to re-key the cylinder with new tumblers.

2. The pinion gear is broken and is slipping, or the rack and lifting mechanism have slipped away from the lifting rods. Sometimes the latter happens because the cover of the device has lost a screw and it is loose. The cover of the Dor-O-Matic is made so that it holds everything in place - quite an engineering marvel, if you ask nobody.

What you will need.

A Phillip's driver and a new pinion gear. You can find the gear online. Just do a search for Dor-O-Matic parts. The gear is a small round gear. Also, buy a new plastic bushing while you're at it. In fact, if you have lots of these doors, by a few pinion gears and bushings, and get a couple of hex-key dogging shafts and extra screws for the caps. Don't buy the entire dogging mechanism. They seldom break.

Let's fix number 2.

1. Remove the cap. Here is what you will see. The top screw will allow yo to remove an arm which has a hole in it, through which the pinion gear stem passes. This arm holds the pinion gear in place and keeps it from moving out of position. The bottom screw, once removed, allows you to remove the lifter. Once the screw is removed, just work out the lifter.

Picture 1

2. After you remove the pinion arm and the lifter, here is what you have. See picture number two. Look at the very top of the entire lifting mechanism. You will see a round piece of metal with a hole in it. Also, at the very bottom, there is another hole, which you cannot see. These are the top and bottom lifting rods. Now, look in the very center of the picture and you will see the pinion gear. In this picture, you will see a little rust on it. Notice that, around the pinion gear, you see a rack with teeth on the right side running up and down. When you remove the cover and see your door configured this way, with the pinion gear AT THE TOP OF THE RACK, it means that your door can be left locked or unlocked by key. That means that, if you put the key into the outside cylinder, you can turn your key 360 degrees and pull it out, and the door will stay unlocked. Turn it the other way, and it will stay locked. That, then, would be called the classroom function - lock or unlock by key.

While we are here, I am going to teach you to make it so that the key will unlock the lock and allow a person to enter, but, when he removes his key, the door will lock back behind him. By using this trick, there is no chance somebody will accidentally leave the door unlocked. Usually, this is used on churches.

Picture 2

To make this lock always lock back, simply remove the entire lifting package, which consists of the rack and the housing in which the rack sits. (You can leave the pinion gear in if it is not broken.  If it is broken, worn or missing teeth, which is why your key isn't working properly, replace it. Note - there is a usually a flat spot on the pinon gear. Install it face up!)

Now, with the lifting package removed, reinstall the pinion gear, but with the pinion gear coming to rest about one third of the way down in the rack. Actually, the pinion gear will stay where it is. You will be moving the rack up just a bit. Now, when someone uses a key to come in, their key will lift the rods, unlock the door, and go back into lock down mode automatically when the key is removed.

Once you have installed your pinion gear, reinstall the lifting package. Then, reinstall the pinion arm and lifter in the same way you removed them. The lifter takes a little effort to put into place, but it's easy to do. Just play with it.

Picture 3

Just FYI. In picture 3, I am touching the pinion gear. The two pan head screws you see are holding the lock cylinder in place. If you ever over-tighten them, they could break through the aluminum! Also, below the pinion gear, you can see two other Phillip's screws. If these are loose, be sure to tighten them. Just grab the bar and move the device. If there is movement, tighten them. Looseness here could also be effecting your bar's operation.

And, while you're at it, if the front of the push bar itself, the floating part of the bar, is really loose and looks like it is coming off the stationary part of the bar, remove the end cap. Look inside and ONLY LOOSEN the two screws holding the end of the bar onto the door, and remove the device from the door. Carefully flip the device over. When you do, you will see a number of Phillip's screws. These screws hold the bar together. Tighten them. If you are missing any - be sure to order the right screws. You cannot put just any screw in those screw holes! In fact, you are better off if you order a few of these to keep in your kit.

Well, that's it. One more note, though. The rack part of the lifter can go on with the teeth on the right or left. All that will effect is which way the key will turn.

This is really easy to do. Just take pictures of every step you take. Then, if you get lost, you can find you way again! If you think about it, there really aren't that many parts involved.

Learn Locksmithing for Free - Lesson #1 (What You'll Need and Lock Cylinder Basics)

Welcome to Learn Locksmithing for Free, Lesson #1 - What You'll Need and Lock Cylinder Basics.

Your first lesson is very simple: it will give you an understanding of the tools you will need to get started. I will also tell you how keys work in locks. Don't worry. I have a trimmed-down list of the basic items you will need, and purchasing them will not cost you an arm and a leg. That is, unless you want to buy a key duplicating machine, which you will need to do eventually.

Here is the list:

1. A lab .003 pin kit. You can get a small one, or get the professional size.

2. A standard-sized plug follower.

3. A package of steel cylinder shims to use when there is no key for the cylinder you need to re-key.

4. A set of picks. All you will need is two rakes, a couple of tension wrenches, and couple of spiral broken key extractors. A word about picks here. In some states, you cannot get these unless you have a locksmith license. However, you can find them online. Just steer away from the gimmick lock pick sets. If it says CIA on it, you're being sold a feeling, not a tool set. Plus, you really don't pick locks these days. Sure you will pick open a house lock, or maybe a drawer lock, but, after spending thirty years in this business, I have come to the conclusion that lock picking is more about show, hype, and making sales of picks than it is an actual practice. If you find a small set at a great price, get it.

5. A Kwikset cylinder removal tool.

6. A Kwikset Smart Key reset cradle or resetting tool.

7. Drivers, including a small, flat-head driver used from prying clips off the back of cylinder plugs.

8. Kwikset key blanks - five-pin blanks versus the six-pin - (box of fifty)

9. A regular Kwikset knob, and a Smartkey knob.

You should be able to get these items from any locksmith distributor. Look online for HL Flake in Memphis, Tennessee, or IDN Armstrong's. Get their phone number, and give them a call. Tell them what you are doing, and ask them if they will sell to you.

David Calvin's theory of learning locksmithing: Learn the locks, and you will learn the skills. The first lesson, really, will be how to take apart the Kwikset lock and pin it. But, for now, let me show you how 95% of all cylinders work. Take a look at the cylinder below. This is a key-in-knob cylinder, or a KIK cylinder. If you can learn this, you will have learned the rim cylinder and the mortise cylinder because they are all alike. They are only different in shape and tailpiece application. So, lets go to the picture.

Key-in-knob cylinder broken down.

Key-in-knob cylinder with tailpiece removed and plug being pushed out by follower, thus holding the
top pins and springs in place.

The Parts of the Lock and Key

1. The key. This is a Schlage key made by LSDA. It is an SC1 key. Starting with the bow, or handle of the key, which you see on the right, we work our way left. Note the first pin. Notice how it sits in a deep hole, which is called the first cut. At the bottom of this cut is a tiny flat spot where the point of the pin comes to rest when the key is inserted. The deepest cut for a Schlage is a 9 depth. The shallowest is a 0 cut. As you proceed from right to left, you will see six cuts in this key and six pins corresponding to each cut. (Some locks only have five pins. So be sure you use a 5 cut key with a 5 pin or 6 pin lock. If you have a 5 pin lock, you must use a 5 pin key, otherwise, the key will not enter the lock completely.) Remember: the key, in this case, Schlage, has 9 depths, from 0 to 9, and six cuts. That is known as depths and spacings.

2. The plug. To the left of the key is a round cylinder called a cylinder plug. Once the key is inserted into the plug, the bottoms pins are are installed into it corresponding to the cuts in the key. If the pins inserted into the plug are flush, then the plug will turn in the core. See those holes? When there is no key present, the top pins, pushed by springs, are forced into the holes, thus obliterating the sheer line. When the right key is inserted, the bottom pins rise up to the correct height, push the top pins up, and a sheer line is created. Then, the key will turn. (Note here that the springs and top pins stay in the top part of the shell. You can see the shell on the top of the picture. Behind it is the follower, the tool you will use to push out the plug while holding the top pins and springs in place.)

Looking at the first cut, can you guess what depth are you looking at? A shallow or a deep cut? It is deep. I would guess that cut is a 9 depth. So, when I am re-keying this lock, I will insert the key into the lock plug, the round cylinder to the left, take a 9 Schlage pin out of my Lab pin kit, and drop it into the first hole. If the pin sits flush with the top of the plug, then I guessed correctly. If the pin sits too low or two high, I will try the next pin, either taller or shorter, until I get the right pin. (By the way, original Schlage keys have the pin numbers stamped on them!) If, however, you are pinning up a lock using a sloppy, worn out key, then you have to fudge with the sizes. Just find the right pins that, once dropped into the plug, sit flush.

3. The shell. I have mentioned that. The shell is the part into which the plug slides and which holds the top pins and springs in place. When you are re-keying a lock like this, I never removed the springs and top pins unless the lock does not work smoothly.

4. The tailpiece. You can see it in the bottom picture. They all work the same, only they come in different lengths. When you buy a new KIK cylinder, it will come with all of the sizes you will need for most commercial levers, knobs, and deadbolts. When reinstalling the tailpiece, tighten the nut to snug, then back off an eight of a turn. If it is too tight, the cylinder will not turn smoothly. If it is too loose, the key will not come out. Try doing this. Install the nut loosely and insert your key. Try to pull the key out. Then, holding the front of the plug in, pull on the key. Note the key will come out. Sometimes, people call me and can't get their key out of their business lock. This is because, somehow, the nut is worn or came loose. On mortise locks, it happens because the two screws holding the cam on are loose.

5. Pins. Top pins are generally one size and are flat on both ends. Bottom pins always have points. Yes, they wear out. When they do, the sheer line is effected, and the key snags.

Note: In the event you accidentally dump out all of the top pins and springs, it is easy to fix. Insert your follower in the shell, and put it up close to the number 3 pin chamber. Insert a spring with your pin tweezers, and then insert a top pin. Hold them in place and slide the follower to cover them. Do chamber 2 and 1. Then, looking into the REAR of the shell, pull the follower out toward the front until you see the empty number 4 chamber. Install a spring and a top pin, slide the follower forward, and then do chambers 5 and 6. In fact, you need to practice this. It is not a big deal.

Learn this material, get your tools, and proceed to lesson two, where you will learn to work on the Kwikset pin tumbler lock.

Learn Locksmith Skills for Free!!

Want to make money servicing Locks?

I am beginning a series of articles designed to teach you the skills needed to become a locksmith. I won't charge you a dime. Learning how to re-key and service locks for homes and businesses is not difficult. My first post is a lesson on re-keying a Kwikset lock. The next one will cover shimming a lock cylinder open if you have no key. Once you master these skills, you will know how to re-key just about any type of lock. Yes, it is that easy. Feel free to begin at anytime! And be sure to subscribe free-of-charge to my blog. I will not share your information. I just want to know who's following me. Thanks!!

Learn Locksmithing Free - Lesson #2 - The Kwikset Lock

If you can re-key a Kwikset lock, you can key just about any other kind of lock. That's why I say that, if you can re-key a home, you can re-key a business. Here's what you will need to become a house re-keying expert.

1. A lab .003 increment pin kit

2. A follower

3. A Kwikset removal tool

4. Screw drivers

5. A new key for the lock

6. The old key for the lock (This just makes it easier for you to remove the plug.)

7. A Kwikset deadbolt and doorknob.

8. Picks and shims.

9 A pair of pinning tweezers.

You can't get a pick set from a locksmith distributor if you are not a locksmith. However, you can find them online.

Turn the spindle to the center, 
insert tool and push up on 
spring-loaded clip.

STEP ONE - Remove the lock from the door. Then, remove the round spindle sticking out from the lock. This part is the stem with the hole in it. Starting at the hole, use your eyes and follow the spindle down to where you see a small rectangular tab that meets the brass-colored spring cage. See that little rectangle piece? Turn it so that it is halfway between left and right, half way between locked and unlocked. This is what locks the lock when the key or interior knob thumb turn is used. Now, see the Kwikset removal tool I am holding? Push it up at this point as far as you can and, if you have the locking spindle in the right position, the spindle will pull out. See the next picture.

Remove the lock spindle completely.

STEP TWO - Remove the spindle. Look closely and you will see that the spindle here is between locked and unlocked. When you push up on the spring-loaded clip, it allows the spindle to be released. Sometimes, it is a bit hard to remove. If so, while you are pushing up on the spring-loaded clip, use a screw driver and pry it out. By removing the spindle, you create an access point through which you will "punch out" the locking cylinder.

STEP THREE - Insert the Kwikset removal tool. You will have to wiggle this into the opening. Or, push up on the spring-loaded clip. Actually, it would be a good idea to look at the hole and push up on the spring-loaded clip just so you can see how it works.

Here is a picture of the Kwikset Cylinder Removal tool entering into the lock body. Note the position of the tool. The two points of the tool, when the tool is pushed, will compress two tabs on the rear of the cylinder and allow the cylinder to come out of the front of the lock. You will have to wiggle the tool to get it in!

Here is the lock cylinder coming out of the lock. Please note that, sometimes, the cylinder removal tool is hard to use. There are times when you will need to tap the tool with the the handle of a sturdy screw driver or a pair of Vice Grips. Generally, though, you just grab the tool and wiggle it while pushing. Yes, it may take some umph! After you get it out, make sure the two tabs and spread back apart before reinserting.

STEP FOUR - With the operating key removed, remove the black clip at the back of the cylinder. This clip holds the plug in the body of the shell. If this clip is not attached, and if someone uses a key in the lock, the plug will come out, spilling pins and springs everywhere. I will be posting a lesson on shimming shortly. When reassembling, don't forget to put the clip back on! Yes, I have forgotten to do that a time or two, or three!

STEP FIVE - Insert the operating key into the cylinder and turn the key a quarter turn to the right or left. If you have no key, you will need to shim the lock open which, in this case, I did. Note that the plug is turned a few degrees to the left here. By doing this, you separate the top pins from the bottom pins so that the plug will simply slide out of the shell.

STEP SIX - Using your follower, in this case I am using a hollow brass follower, put it against the rear of the plug and push plug out. Be sure to keep constant pressure on the plug! By using the follower, you keep the top pins and springs in place. Then, all you will need to do is pin up the plug to the new key and reinsert the plug in the same way you removed it. You will reinsert the plug, with key inserted in the plug, with it turned a few degrees to the right of left. If you don't, you run the risk of jamming up the lock. If you do jam the lock, you can remove the top retainer (you can see it here) and take it apart. However, on most commercial locks, you will have to throw the lock away and replace it.

Note how the pin holes in the plug are turned away from the bible, the part of the lock with the long metal cover on it. Can you see it? That cover holds in the springs and pins. Always turn the plug away from the top pins before removing!!! Also, after you learn to re-key this lock, try removing the follower and allow all the top pins and springs to fly out in your hand. Then, insert the follower and, starting with the third top pin chamber, insert a spring and then a top pin. Then, slide your follower forward to hold that top pin in place, and then insert a spring and top pin in the second chamber, and then the first. Then, pull the follower through and look at the fourth chamber. Insert a spring and a top pin and then do the fifth chamber. You need to learn how load the top chambers from inside the lock. Why? Because most locks do not have metal top pin covers that can be removed like on the Kwikset. Remember, to reinstall springs and top pins, you must start with the center pin chamber and work your way to the front and then the back. Just do it!!! Practice it!

STEP SEVEN - Once the plug is removed from the shell, insert the new key. Note here that the pins are not flush across the top of the shell. How do you key up the plug to a new key? If you have the Lab .003 increment pin kit, there is a chart which tells you the pin sizes of all the major brands. Kwikset has pins 1 through 6. The 1 pin sits in the shallowest cut of the key, the 6 pin is for the deepest cut of the key. The Kwikset usually has only five pins in a plug. Some have Six. The first cut of the key is the first flat spot you see nearest the stop sign-shaped head of the key. If it is really shallow, try a number 1 pin as identified on your pin kit chart. That pin is a .171 pin. If that pin is too short, go the number 2 pin. It is a .195 pin. You know you have used the right pin if the top of the pin sits flush with the top of the plug. Pin up the remaining chambers and reinsert the key.

My advice to you, as a beginning locksmith, is to get these tools and take apart a Kwikset lock. If you can learn to remove the cylinder, remove the plug by either using a key and shimming (a lesson about to be posted), re-pin the plug, and reinsert it, then you can re-key about any kind of lock there is. The real work in lock re-keying is getting the lock cylinder out of the locking device. And, get this: there are only three types of lock cylinders, the rim, the key-in-knob, and the mortise, and they all key up exactly the same! Now, how easy is that?

Please, if you will, follow this blog. It will help me in the search-rankings. Will you do that for me? Thanks!

Lesson Three will cover lock shimming, a technique used when you do not have the old key with which to easily disassemble the cylinder.