Masterkeying Problems - Your Incompetent Locksmith Has Filed Down Your Cylinders

Chances are there are some locksmiths in your area that are highly incompetent. They drive the vehicle, wear the shirt, and have the advertisements; but they have no real clue about quality work. In Nashville, TN, even some of the oldest locksmiths are destroying customers locks so that they cannot be master-keyed securely. You would be surprised by who it is, because they are highly regarded in the community. When an incompetent locksmith re-keys your locks, he removes them, puts the wrong sized tumblers in the chambers, and grinds the lock cylinder down on a grinder or he hand files them. When he does this, he is removing from .020 to ,045 of an inch of valuable metal from your lock. He is ruining your lock!

Now, let us say that you call another locksmith in to master-key the locks. When a lock is master-keyed, a master key works the lock and an individual, different key works the lock as well. In fact, a master key system can have more levels than just two. But the problem comes when your incompetent locksmith files the cylinder plugs down to fit his wrong tumblers. Why? Because there are master pins that start at .024 of an inch. If he files the plug down to .045 of an inch, you can see that a .024 inch master pin will float in empty space and jam your lock.

There is a way around this problem, however. Today I did a small master key job where a locally famous, incompetent locksmith preceded me. The plugs were all filed down and some of the chambers were mauled. Because the master key system was small, I designed it to take larger master pins. Instead of making small two-step increments in the system, like a #2 cut in the master and a #4 cut in the change key, I went to a #5 in the change key. The difference between the #4 and #5 was sufficient enough to compensate for the filed cylinder plugs. So, the difference between a #2 master key cut and #5 change key cut is 3. A 3 master pin is thicker than a number 2 master pin.

I will tell you just how prevalent lock cylinder filing is. A number of years ago there was locksmith school here in the southern part of the country. The owner told me to insert the pins, grind the cylinder, and that would take care of the job; and this guy was grinding away a fourth of the cylinder. His excuse was that the lock was not pick-proof anyway. What he did was to make the lock no longer fit to be keyed. He also made the lock easier to pick and made the chances greater that a wrong key could "jiggle" the lock open.

So, if you want your locks master-keyed, you will need to know if your locksmith has filed the cylinders down. If he has, and he won't tell you they have been filed, he will have to sell you replacement cylinders. The cost of your job will be double.

If you suspect that your locksmith is filing your cylinders, have another locksmith install a new cylinder and call the suspect locksmith to key it. Have the first locksmith inspect the work. If the lock has been filed, fire the old locksmith.

Replace the Stock Cylinders That Come With Your New Commercial Glass Door

If you have a commercial glass door, and it is a newer door, chances are there are stock, glass door lock cylinders installed. Of course, you pay quite a hefty sum to have these doors installed; but the truth of the matter is that the lock cylinders that come with it are "dollar-trash" locks cylinders. If the lock cylinders are newer, then the keys will work okay for a while. If you try to re-key them, and the locksmith uses some deeper cuts in the key, the tumblers will just refuse to operate properly. If you have had these cylinders for a while, it is best to ask your locksmith to install solid brass cylinders on his next visit. Here are some things you should know about the lock cylinders that come with your glass doors.

1. The are made of cheap metal and are die cast. They are not finely machined brass. Die cast metal tends to corrode more easily than brass.
2. The tailpieces or cams cannot be held on to the cylinders as tightly. Eventually, the screws work themselves free and jam the lock. I have seen this too many times to remember.
3. The cams on these locks are often die cast material of inferior quality as well. If you have to force the key to lock the bolt, the pressure can be enough to shatter the cam, causing a lock out.
4. The Adams- Rite set screws which hold the lock cylinders in place just never hold very well, causing the lock cylinders to spin freely when you turn the key.
5. It seems that, over time, the tumblers wear a pattern into the cylinder plug and make accurate re-keying impossible. If you insert your key into the cylinder and it hesitates before turning, your lock has a wear pattern and the top pins are not falling correctly into the chambers.

Key Will Not Come Out Of Lock

When your key is getting harder and harder to pull out of the lock, it will eventually get stuck for good. This problem occurs mainly on store front glass doors where an Adams-Rite style bolt or latch is used. Of course, it can occur on some panic bar rim locks and commercial grade knobs and levers, though I do not see this very often. So, let's get that key out the lock so you can go home for the night. The locksmith can wait until tomorrow when you may be able to get a better service call rate! Here is what every manager and key-holding employee should know.

1. Stand on the outside facing the lock. Your key is stuck in the lock. First, be aware that a key can only be removed in the position in which it was inserted. Usually, this will be with the cuts of the key facing upwards directly at 12 o'clock. (Some automatic sliding glass doors have the entire lock system upside down, however. So, in that case, the key cuts will be pointing to 6 o'clock.) Note that when you try to pull your key out, that small round part of the lock the key is inserted into is trying to come out with the key. This is causing the tumblers to bind and hold the key. You will have to relieve this pressure in order to remove the key.
2. If you are leaving for the night, turn the key and lock the door.
3. Now, grab the key with your right hand. With your left thumb, push in on the small round part of the lock into which the key is inserted. Your thumb will be right up against the key. Now, with the key in the correct position (12 o'clock), push the small round part in with your thumb and "wiggle/pull" the key out. In the morning call your locksmith to tighten the screws on the back of the mortise cylinder.

There are some other scenarios that can cause your key to get stuck. If you use your key to pry open things, then the tip gets bent. Your key is bent if it is hard to insert. Have a new key copied. Sometimes, some one has inserted a device into your lock thinking he or she could force the lock open. Again, your key will be hard to insert. At restaurants, people usually stick toothpicks into the locks. At clothing store, people stick straight pins into the key cylinder.

Church Lock Issues

Most churches give out keys to just about everyone who wants one. Of course, there is a good reason for this if they are involved in ministry. But a problem surfaces when members begin copying their keys for other members. Over time, because people are copying a copy of a copy, the keys no longer work properly because the copying process distorts the cuts depths and spaces of the key. When the key goes into the lock, the key does not freely operate. Instead, it has to be "jiggled". Because the keys are not working properly, the pin chambers in the lock begin to wear prematurely. Here are some solutions.

• Install a "hard-to-duplicate" key system on the door you would like members to enter. You can use my RX system as other churches have done. It isn't expensive compared to other high-tech brands and is available only to locksmiths who are U.S. Lock dealers. This is the preferred method for dealing with key issues. Email me at abestlocksmith@gmail.com if you have any questions.
• Install a Alarm Lock Trilogy push-button lock on one entrance and have members enter only through that door. A locksmith will pay around $400-$450 for one of these, depending on the type of door. Ideally, and for cost effectiveness, install one on a solid metal or wood door. If you install this lock on a glass door, you will need an interior lever, an Adams-Rite dead latch, and custom installation. This could end up running you $800 to $1,000.