Monday, October 31, 2011

Your Door Bounces Off the Jamb Instead of Latching

All of us just swing the doors until they close. But sometimes, the slam against the strike plate and bounce open. Then we go back, turn the handle and close the door manually. So, what is wrong here? The solution may be easy.
  1. First, using WD-40, lube the latch on the lock. Shoot it in but do not let it drip all over your floor. Swing the door shut gently without touching the knob. This usually does the job.
  2. If after you lube the latch the door is still bouncing off the strike plate, the the latch is bad. Get the name off the latch and go to Lowe's. Either buy a new lock and have the attendant key it to match your key, or just buy the latch.
  3. Do not forget to check the strike plate to see if it is in the correct place.
  4. If the latch is broken, and you have a Kwikset lock, your door could get locked up.

Thursday, October 27, 2011

Store Front Glass Door is Hard to Lock and Unlock

If your key is working fine when the door is open but is very hard to turn when locking or unlocking the door, then the problem is not in the lock. There are three things to check for.
  1. First, check the threshold and make sure there are not any small rocks or other debris that are being squeezed by the door. When debris is present, you have to push the door in order to get the bolt to lock AND push the door to get it to unlock. What you are doing is relieving the pressure from the bolt enabling it to operate. Remove any debris and repair any screws that may have risen in the the threshold.
  2. Second, if your door or door frame has settled, then the bolt receptacle in the jamb and the bolt are not lining up. Specifically, the bolt is too high and is stopping prematurely by hitting the top of the jamb cut out. Yes, it will lock when it is like this, but you will notice by using a flashlight that the bolt is hitting metal before it goes through the complete cycle. Take a small round metal file which you can get at Lowe's and file to top of the cut out and give the bolt another quarter inch within which to move. 
  3. Third, if the door is warped, you have to push in on the door in order for the bolt to engage. Using a metal file, file the part of the jamb bolt slot nearest you on the outside enlarging the hole.

Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Anti-Wrench Collar For Commercial Front Door

No matter how you look at it, your aluminum and glass front door is a security liability; but it doesn't mean you should just sit down and accept it! In fact, there are a a number of things you can do to make this door a more secure, if not from a hardware angle, at least by appearance.
  1. First, you can install physical protection on the lock cylinder. You can use a CRL Cylinder Guard, which is inserted into the door and anchored with a retainer ring behind the aluminum stile. However, this device has been known to cause interference with the Adams-Rite lock mechanism. If you opt to have this installed, make sure your locks turn with ease and that there is no grinding as you turn the key. Another guard to consider is the Keedex guard shown above. This item costs the locksmith around $7.00 and will keep a burglar from using Vice grips on your lock. In Tennessee, you may pay a locksmith around $85 to show up and install this item.
  2. You can install a MAG strike protector for the narrow stile door. This device will make it harder for thieves to pry the bolt through the soft aluminum metal frame. If you have a hook bolt, a quick visual inspection will reveal this, then your door is especially vulnerable to crow bar attacks. Do know that any latch guard can be compromised with time. What you want to do, however, is make the burglar go to the next store.
  3. Get an alarm and display the warning stickers. Or, just go online and get the stickers! You can also buy a stand-alone alarm unit to put on this door, like the EAX-500 by Detex. Although this device will not be monitored by an agency, if the door is breached after hours, the burglar is likely to flee.
  4. Because there is no real fool-proof way to secure your aluminum glass storefront door, a good alarm must be considered, along with the lock hardware upgrades, and good lighting.

Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Lock Cylinder Spins in Circles and Will Not Lock or Unlock Door

When you insert the key into the lock cylinder, only the plug into which the key is inserted is supposed to turn, thereby unlocking the lock mechanism. However, sometimes a set screw comes loose and the entire lock begins to turn in the door. Here is what you can do to fix this and save that $75 locksmith fee.
  1. Look at how you neighbor's lock cylinder is situated on the front door. On most doors, the key is inserted with the cuts of the key facing up. It is in this 12 o'clock 6 o'clock configuration that you want your lock to conform to.
  2. Unloosen the three Phillips screws on the side of the door where the lock is located. Pry this plate off if it is tight.
  3. Using a small flat head driver, further unloosen the countersunk set screw opposite the lock cylinder. Do not remove it, just loosen it. Turn the lock cylinder to the proper position. Tighten the set screw.
  4. Sometimes, however, you will have to unloosen the two large screws at the top or bottom of the main bolt lock body in order to give the cylinder some wiggle room. When all is set into place, tighten everything. Reattach plate. Test keys and locks. While you are at it, shoot some WD-40 into the bolt.
  5. Also, you will not be able to turn the cylinder if your key is inserted into the lock and turned. The reason is that the cam on the back of the lock is jamming the lock.. If your key is inserted into the lock, you will to turn the cylinder towards where it should be while trying to gently turn the key to where it should be when inserted. You just have to juggle this to get it where the key will come out. Remember, if the key hole is not set to the correct clock position, the key cannot be inserted or retracted.

Monday, October 24, 2011

Key Will Not Come Out Of Lock

When your key is getting harder and harder to pull out of the lock, it will eventually get stuck for good. This problem occurs mainly on store front glass doors where an Adams-Rite style bolt or latch is used. Of course, it can occur on some panic bar rim locks and commercial grade knobs and levers, though I do not see this very often. So, let's get that key out the lock so you can go home for the night. The locksmith can wait until tomorrow when you may be able to get a better service call rate! Here is what every manager and key-holding employee should know.
  1. Stand on the outside facing the lock. Your key is stuck in the lock. First, be aware that a key can only be removed in the position in which it was inserted. Usually, this will be with the cuts of the key facing upwards directly at 12 o'clock. (Some automatic sliding glass doors have the entire lock system upside down, however. So, in that case, the key cuts will be pointing to 6 o'clock.) Note that when you try to pull your key out, that small round part of the lock the key is inserted into is trying to come out with the key. This is causing the tumblers to bind and hold the key. You will have to relieve this pressure in order to remove the key.
  2. If you are leaving for the night, turn the key and lock the door.
  3. Now, grab the key with your right hand. With your left thumb, push in on the small round part of the lock into which the key is inserted. Your thumb will be right up against the key. Now, with the key in the correct position (12 o'clock), push the small round part in with your thumb and "wiggle/pull" the key out. In the morning call your locksmith to tighten the screws on the back of the mortise cylinder.
There are some other scenarios that can cause your key to get stuck. If you use your key to pry open things, then the tip gets bent. Your key is bent if it is hard to insert. Have a new key copied. Sometimes, some one has inserted a device into your lock thinking he or she could force the lock open. Again, your key will be hard to insert. At restaurants, people usually stick toothpicks into the locks. At clothing store, people stick straight pins into the key cylinder.

Sunday, October 23, 2011

Locksmith Rates in Murfreesboro & Nashville, TN

Here are some rates you can expect to pay in Murfreesboro and Nashville, Tennessee. I will also share with you the scam price quotes designed to hook you. Generally, the scams will only give you a cheapy service call rate and refuse to give you a final price for the entire job. They will just surprise you when it is all over and you will be gouged. Scams will quote you on an $85 job and you will end up paying $375 for that $85 job! These are usually the guys in the top paid Internet listings.

  • Car Openings - $45 to $75 (Scam - $14, $15, $19)
  • Service Call - $45 to $75 (Scam - $14, $15, $19)
  • Price Per Cylinder Re-Keyed - $13 to $20 (Scam - Will Not Quote)
  • Safe Combination Change - $95 to $150
  • Deadbolt Installation (Add Service Call) - $60 to $95
  • General Glass Door Lock Service - $65 to $125
  • Door Closer Install (Surface Mount - $165 to $450, Concealed - $350 to $450)
  • Key Copies $2.00 to $4.00
  • New Commercial Mortise Cylinder, Glass Door - $27.50 to $70

Removing A Commercial Knob or Lever

If you want to remove a commercial knob or lever, all you need is a heavy paperclip, a #2 Phillips driver and a flat-head driver. Follow these instructions.
  1. On the inside part of the lock, look at the round stem of the lock from to which the knob or lever is attached. On either the left at right side of the lock you will see a small hole. Insert your paperclip straight in and depress the hidden button inside.
  2. While you are pressing, pull the knob or lever off towards you.
  3. Take you flat-head driver and pry off the rose. This is a round dish-shaped part that covers the screw holes and spring cassette. Sometimes, you can just grab it and turn it a few degrees to the left and it will pop off.
  4. Now you can see the screws. Remove them. On some Schlage models, however, there is a nut on the spindle with 4 square notches in it. It is in a tight place, recessed in the spring cassette. Take your flat-head driver and a hammer and lightly tap this around, counterclockwise, until it comes off.
  5. Some locks use an Allen wrench to hold the lever on. In this case, the Allen screw would take the place of the hidden button.

Saturday, October 22, 2011

Door Closer Leaking Oil

Having a door closer malfunction is usually a good sign! It means your business has customers that are entering and exiting your door. But a door closer that slams or stops altogether can pose a very dangerous situation to you and your customers. If your door closer slams it could easily break a customers limb, throw her to the ground, knock her unconscious, or severe fingers. Aside from a lawsuit, you as a manager or business owner would never be able to live with the fact that your negligence in maintaining your door closers maimed a person. Here is what you can do to maintain you door closer.
  1. Take a small flat head screwdriver and a set of Allen wrenches. On either side of the surface mounted closer, or in the header, you will see two or three screws. One screw controls the speed of the door from full open to about 2/3rds closed. This is called the sweep. The second screw controls the speed from the 2/3rds mark to close. This is called the latch. It is hard to know which is which sometimes. Usually 1 is sweep and 2 is latch. If your door is closing too fast, turn one of the screws a half turn and see where the door slowed down. Was it the sweep or latch? By tightening these screws slowly, you can reduce the closing speeds. If you tighten them all of the way down, then the door should stop in the open position. However, never unloosen the screws to where they fall out because hydraulic fluid will shoot out and you will ruin the closer.
  2. Check for fluid leakage around the closer. Touch the closer. Is there an oily or sticky feel to it? Often, a broken closer has leaking oil. Sometimes, a closer is leaking but has not broken fully. If you see oil leaking, the closer must be replaced. Not only will the closer eventually slam, but someone may slip on the oil or have their clothes ruined.
  3. If your door stays open, the spring in the closer is probably ruined. Replace it.
  4. If you have an overhead concealed closer, expect to pay $450 to have it replaced. It usually takes two people to install one. This unit will cost the locksmith about $110. A surface mounted closer can cost you from $195 to $500 depending on brand. A nice LCN 4041 would be expensive. A Grade 1 LSDA closer would be your best bet. All closers come in either Bronze or silver.
Make money servicing door closers! Click here to go to Amazon and check out my computer downloadable book.  Servicing and Replacing Commercial Door Closers.


    Friday, October 21, 2011

    Keying Locks To Match

    After searching my business website, www.a-bestlocksmith.com, I have noticed one question that is asked quite often. That question is, "Can I make the keys match on my Schlage and Kwikset locks?" The short answer is "No". But that does not mean you cannot have all of your house locks on one key just because they are different brands. Consider some of the following points if you wish to have your locks match.


    1. If you want to have your locks all match one key, try this simple test. Take the key that operates your best lock and try it out on every lock in your home. You are not looking for the key to operate the lock, you want to know if the key will go into the lock. If the key goes in, then that type of lock is compatible with the key you are using. Hire a locksmith and ask him to key them to match.
    2.  Kwikset, Callin, EZ Set, some Baldwin, Weiser, Falcon, Defiant and others are compatible on the same type of key. Schlage will not be part of this set.
    3. Schlage locks, though popular, have their own key way. It is referred to as Schlage C, or SC1. Except for commercial after-market manufacturing, there are no residential imitations that use that key way. Kustom Key online does offer a Schlage C cylinder that can be used in the bottom-line Kwikset knob. But they ship out of the west coast and you will need a special tool and some know-how in order to make the change. Besides, Kwikset is going over to the Smart Key system and this lock will not accept the Schlage keyed cylinder that is offered. So, my advice is to either buy more Schlage Locks at Lowe's or buy all Kwikset.
    4. The easiest way to match your locks and keys are to determine which locks are in the best condition and are most numerous. Then, go to Lowe's, give your key to the salesperson, and ask him to key up the appropriate locks you need. He will also be glad to illustrate for you how to remove and install the locks.

    Wednesday, October 19, 2011

    Avoiding Car Lockouts

    Even locksmiths get locked out of their vehicles. Usually, it is their spouses who come and get them back in. Here are two tips you can use to keep from having to pay out good money to have your car opened.
    1. Keep a spare key in your purse or wallet. If you have a key with a transponder in the head, have that key copied onto a all metal blank so that it does not take up much space. It will not turn your car on, but it will open the doors and trunk. Also, if you lose the original ignition key, it will be easier to make a working key from this copy.
    2. The best idea is to have the metal key made from the ignition key. Have your hardware store person drill a hole in the head of the key. Remove a screw from your license plate, slide the key behind the license plate, and reinsert the screw to hold the key in place behind the license plate. In the event you get locked out, any business manager or custodian will have a screwdriver or pair of pliers with which to retrieve your key. Do not fear that this key will be discovered by a car thief because, as it will open the door or trunk, it will not start the car.

    Tuesday, October 18, 2011

    Kaba Ilco Simplex L1000 and L5000 Combination Changing

    Kaba L1000
    Here are the procedures for changing the combination on the L1000. You will need to contact Kaba Ilco and purchase a change key and a change tool. Also, make sure your numbers on the unit each have a nice, firm, crisp click. Do this in order after clearing the unit. If a number is soft and mushy, do not use that number in your new combination. If you have a few soft numbers, your locksmith can replace the combination chamber. By the way, the factory preset code is 2 and 4 together, then 3.
    1. With door open, turn outside handle once to clear unit of any pushed numbers.
    2. Remove small lock on rear side top of unit with special change key.
    3. Enter old combination.
    4. Insert change tool into hole on back (look at it closely), insert tool, turn to right until you hear a click. Return tool back to left, remove.
    5. Turn outside handle once to operate.
    6. Enter new combination (You can only use a number once).
    7. Turn outside lever and verify that latch is retracted.
    The L5000 change is a little different.
    1. Clear outside handle.
    2. Enter old combination, and push "ENTER". Insert small Allen wrench (any size that will fit) into the hole on the front of the unit in the upper left corner. Angle your Allen wrench upwards so it can come down on the top of the change button inside the unit. Push the change button down until you feel and hear a click. Remove Allen wrench.
    3. Clear outside lever once.
    4. Enter new combination and push "ENTER". Operate outside lever to verify that the latch retracts. Test.

    House Locks Are Not Locking Into the Jamb Properly

    You should always test your doors in order to make sure that your lock latches and bolts are lining up with the strike plates in the door jamb. The reason for this is because 1) houses settle and move over time and 2) the weather will cause wood to shrink and expand. Here is how you check your latches and bolts.

    1. Standing on the inside, close you your door and notice where the knob latch hits the plate on the door jamb. It should be dead center. If it hits off center and still locks, then you are still okay for the moment. You may need a flashlight.
    2. Throw your deadbolt and verify that it is entering the plate dead center.
    3. If everything looks okay, try this next test. Close the door gently. Look and listen to determine that the knob latch has clicked into place. Operate the deadbolt. If you have to close your door with a slam to get the latches to line up properly, that is not necessarily a bad thing. Over time, however, it may become an issue.
    4. Check your hinge screws and make sure they are snug. If they are loose, they can cause the door to sag and the locks to lose their alignment. If your screws are stripped, get 3 inch long sheet rock screws and replace two in each hinge on the jamb. This will often pull the door up and realign the latches. If this doesn't help, proceed to the next section. But, by all means, tighten the hinge screws!
    How to realign your strike plate. (Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, wooden golf tees, pencil, hammer, and 1 inch wood chisel from Lowe's).

    1. Using the above instructions, determine whether or not you need to raise, lower, set back, or move forward the knob strike plate.
    2. Remove the strike plate.
    3. Reposition the strike plate where needed and outline the place with a pencil.
    4. Using your wood chisel and hammer, chisel out the wood by first outlining the marks you made with the pencil, and then chiseling out the wood itself.
    5. Use golf tees to fill in the old screw holes. Just gently hammer them in until they are snug and then snap them off flush with the jamb.
    6. Replace the strike plate and fasten with screws.
    7. Follow the same procedure with the dead bolt strike plate.

    Sunday, October 16, 2011

    Home Invasion Alert Devices

    Strobe Alarm
    Here is the type of product you should consider using in your home. It is said that one in every five homes will experience a home invasion. What is a home invasion? A home invasion is not a burglary. A home invasion occurs when you are at home. I have known people who have experienced home invasions. Let us just say that you do not want to wake up in the night with somebody standing over your bed.

    I like the concept of a stand-alone motion-activated alarm. Such a product is not wired into your home alarm system, which you never use anyway, and is completely self-contained and battery-operated. In the event you are sleeping, and an intruder walks by this device, he or she will be met with a 105 decibel siren. The intruder will assume the alarm is coming from the home integrated alarm and will flee. This alarm will also wake you up and enable you to get your very large, $50 group-spraying mace device or weapon. Here are a few tips on placing such an alarm.
    1. Put it low enough to detect a person, but high enough to ignore pets.
    2. Put it in the hallway far enough away from your bedroom so you will have more time to react.
    3. Consider placing the alarm in multiple locations near entry ways.
    I like the strobe motion alarm concept offered by Streetwise on Amazon.com. It comes with a remote. However, at $21, I wonder if it is too cheap; but, then again, technology is getting cheaper! Just search the web for "portable motion alarm" and you will see the available products. There are also stand-alone units that have auto-dialers as well. Remember that you get what you pay for!

    Life & Property Protection Using Stand-Alone Hidden DVR Recorders

    Purchasing and installing a hardwired camera system is something most people know nothing about; and, even if they did, they would find the costs of such a system a bit pricey. However, there is a way for you to protect yourself, your home, and your business without calling a professional camera installation company. In fact, you can purchase a motion-activated DVR video recording device that is completely contained in something as small as a fake smoke detector or Kleenex box! If you want to access what your camera recorded while you were away, or what it recorded when your home was being invaded, you would simply insert a flash drive into the device and download the recording to your computer.

    Pictured above is an amazing hidden camera.  It looks just like an air ionizer. It sells for $499. It is available for your research at Brickhouse Security on the web.  However, there are less expensive models and types that are available. Just surf the web! But, the "ionizer" is just one example of many different ways a hidden camera can be hidden. I would, however, avoid a fake hidden camera that is installed in an item a thief would like to have, like a DVD player! Believe me when I tell you that companies make hidden cameras in DVD players. Go figure. Anyway, here are the specifications of this product as listed by Brickhouse Security:


    Features:
    • Records day or night
    • Nightvision for when light drops recording below .5 Lux
    • Nightvision records up to 20 ft. away
    • Motion-activated MPEG 4 video
    • SD card reader included
    • Time/Date stamp
    • Playback directly on unit or remove SD card and play on monitor/TV 
    Every home and business should consider adding such a device to the building security program. Not only will you be able to see who is entering your home when you are gone, but you will catch thieves, cheating spouses, and housemaids looking for the painkillers! Be sure to search all the different kinds of items cameras can be hidden in!

    Home Invasion Prevention

    It has been said that one in five homes have experienced a home invasion. A home invasion is not like a burglary, which takes place when you are away. A home invasion is when someone comes into your home when you are there. Let's face it: none of us is immune to having our home invaded. It does not mater what neighborhood you live in, either. Upscale or slum, you are a target.

    I have one female client in Murfreesboro, TN, who had a few home invasions. When she moved into her new home, which was a foreclosure property, she never had the locks changed. For a period of 6 months, she had this feeling that someone was entering her home. One evening, while she was sleeping, someone entered her home with a key. What woke her up was the sound of the creaking rail leading up the stairs. Luckily, she awoke and startled the invader, who fled. Now, imagine being a single woman and waking up with a man standing over you.

    Here are some precautions you need to take.

    1. Always have your house locks re-keyed when you move in and never leave a key outside under one of those fake-looking rocks. Criminals know where all the hiding places are.
    2. Get a dog or make it look like you have have a dog by putting a beat up dog food bowl at the front and rear doors.
    3. Get motion-activated lights put up on the front, rear, and sides of your home.
    4. You can get a house alarm, but not everyone can afford one. Instead, get a stand-alone, motion-activated, infrared alarm. This would be a portable alarm. If you sleep upstairs, put it at on the wall where an intruder would begin to ascend the steps. You can check out the Infrared Portable Motion Alarm (HS5300) Digital Keypad 105db Siren online. In fact, I think Lowe's sells one for $27. Also, go online and buy the big mace sprayer. This unit is huge, costs around $50, but will take out a bunch of people quickly. When your motion alarm goes off, grab your mace, head for the stairs and, if the criminal is still there, hose him down. 
    5. Make sure you have deadbolts; but do not rely on them. They can be easily kicked in. I will soon be offering an invasion deterrent lock on this site.
    6. If you would like, take a self-defense course and weapons training. The best home defense weapon is the shortened 12 gauge shotgun. I would recommend the new Keltec semi-automatic shotgun. I think it has 18 shots and fires just as fast as you can pull the trigger!
    7. Install a nanny-cam self-contained DVR camera. They come in different configurations. You can even get one that looks like a tissue container. These devices are motion-activated, coming on only when they detect motion.

    Saturday, October 15, 2011

    Thumb Turn In Commercial Glass Door Will Not Turn

    Notice the photo on the left. This is a thumb turn made by U.S. Lock. Notice also that you can see holes on the top. Also imagine that dirt dobbers make nests in your hollow aluminum door and that, as the door is used, debris falls into the holes and jams the lock. Be sure to always ask for a thumb turn that has a cap on the cylinder holes. Sometimes, however, the thumb turn quits and dirt dobbers are not the problem. If your thumb turn is hard to turn, and you feel a grind, you can do these things. (Also note it is threaded and has a set screw channel.)

    1. Look at the thumb turn on the inside of the door. Spray WD-40 around the actual thumb piece so the oil will penetrate into the thumb turn. Be sure to have a paper towel ready. (If you feel grit, read below, unscrew the turn all of the way out and flush it with WD-40.)
    2. If the thumb turn still grinds, loosen the three screws holding on the lock plate on the edge of the door. Now, where you see the thumb turn, imagine it as if it were a clock. At 9 o'clock, or 6 o'clock, on the edge of the door where you see the lock body, you will see a small, countersunk set screw. Unloosen it two or three turns only. Make sure the thumb turn is in the open position. That means, when you turn the thumb turn, you will feel it grab slightly with a spring and ball bearing. This holds the turn in open position. The turn itself will be pointing to 6 and 12 o'clock. If you do not feel the bearing, then turn the thumb turn 180 degrees, or just reverse it. (The lock cannot be removed if it is not in open because a lock cam is trying to activate the lock and hangs down into the lock, barring any attempt to remove it.)
    3. With the set screw loosened, grab the outer body of the thumb turn and turn it counter clockwise, unloosening it, one complete turn.  If you cannot move it, simply unloosen the two lock screws on the edge of the door that hold the bolt in. Tighten the set screw, tighten the lock screws, test the thumb turn. If this doesn't work, go to a better hardware store and buy a new turn. Locksmith's buy these for $6.00 and install them for $75 to $125.

    Sagging Commercial Metal Doors

    Pemko Hinge
    Because employees often use blocks of wood between the door and jamb in order to keep the door open, door hinges are often damaged, as are the door and frame. When the door frame and door supports for the hinges are bent, it is all down hill for the rear door opening. If you have ever priced a commercial door, you will be in for one big surprise.

    Before you spend $50 installing three new commercial hinges, be aware that doing so may not solve your problem. If the damage to the door appears to mild, try this money saving trick. Be sure to use a larger Phillips screwdriver, the one that is sized up above the #2. I think it is a #3. Have someone hold the door open, remove the bottom hinge, which is the least likely hinge to be damaged, and replace it in the top hinge location. By doing this, the bent top hinge will push the lower end of the door out and the normal bottom hinge will pull the top of the door in. If the damage is slight, the door may work just fine. Instruct your employees to prop the door open with a garbage can or large brick. Nothing should ever go between the open door and jamb. When you put something in this place, somebody inevitably tries to force the door shut, unaware of the obstruction. The leverage they apply is multiplied and damage easily results.

    If the door and jamb supports have been totally bent, consider using a Pemko Continuous hinge. This hinge installs on the outside and runs the entire length of the door. They have a lifetime warranty. My advice would be to forget the standard commercial hinges in favor of this. Install this hinge once and forget it. Your locksmith pays $97 for this hinge, which comes in bronze of silver, and he will install it for $300 to $400, depending on certain factors. If you are handy, you could probably install it yourself. Just read the online literature at Pemko.

    Friday, October 14, 2011

    Church Lock Issues

    Most churches give out keys to just about everyone who wants one. Of course, there is a good reason for this if they are involved in ministry. But a problem surfaces when members begin copying their keys for other members. Over time, because people are copying a copy of a copy, the keys no longer work properly because the copying process distorts the cuts depths and spaces of the key. When the key goes into the lock, the key does not freely operate. Instead, it has to be "jiggled". Because the keys are not working properly, the pin chambers in the lock begin to wear prematurely. Here are some solutions.

    • Install a "hard-to-duplicate" key system on the door you would like members to enter. You can use my RX system as other churches have done. It isn't expensive compared to other high-tech brands and is available only to locksmiths who are U.S. Lock dealers. This is the preferred method for dealing with key issues. Email me at abestlocksmith@gmail.com if you have any questions.
    • Install a Alarm Lock Trilogy push-button lock on one entrance and have members enter only through that door. A locksmith will pay around $400-$450 for one of these, depending on the type of door. Ideally, and for cost effectiveness, install one on a solid metal or wood door. If you install this lock on a glass door, you will need an interior lever, an Adams-Rite dead latch, and custom installation. This could end up running you $800 to $1,000.

    Thursday, October 13, 2011

    Commercial Glass Door Deadbolt Unlocking Itself

    No, you aren't imagining things when you show up on Monday morning and your front commercial glass door is unlocked and there has been no apparent burglary. The Adams-Rite deadbolt, or the generic equivalent, is a laminated steel bolt that usually swings upward into the locked position when you turn your key. When you lock this lock, you should flip your key hard at the end turn and listen for the "ker-plunk"! You want to hear that bolt banging into position and you want to hear it deadlock.

    If you find that the bolt is unlocking itself but you aren't quite sure, you can perform two tests.


    1. Lock the door and check that the bolt is locked. Grab the outside handle and rattle and shake the door as if you were trying to open it. Watch and see if the bolt is beginning to drop.
    2. With the door open and in the unlocked position, insert your key and turn it very, very slowly. You do not want the "ker-plunk". Watch the bolt and listen. As your key nears the final motion, the lock will either "click" into place or fall back down. If it clicks into place, take your hand and try to force it down. If it doesn't fall, then your lock's spring is okay. Retest. If it falls, it needs replacing. Ask your locksmith for the generic brand, which costs the locksmith around $15. If he sells you the Adams-Rite brand, he will pay three times as much and charge you accordingly. 
    3. A good price for a standard install of this type might be $95. While you are at it, make sure your lock cylinders are in good shape. If not, have them replaced. A key on the outside and a thumb turn on the inside.

    Wednesday, October 12, 2011

    Commercial Rear Door Emergency Exit Rules

    If you have an emergency exit sign above a door, then you have an emergency exit. Besides making sure the "emergency exit" sign is well lit, and that there are no obstructions blocking egress through that door, you must also be careful to insure that the door in question can be exited in one motion. That means you cannot have a door that must be activated or unlocked twice before a person can leave. The reasons are fairly obvious. In the event of a fire or violent crime, a person must be able to hit that door running without having to stop and think about which lock to unlock first. It may seem simple at first thought; but think about it. When people are frightened by danger, their only concern is getting away from the danger.

    This means you can have only one locking device on that door. However, there are a number of things you can do to better secure your emergency exit. Let's face it: a rear door with only a lever is not going to keep you secure. After 23 years of door lock servicing I can help you with some ideas. I will list some pros and cons for each solution.

    1. You can keep the lever, but be sure to add a Don-Jo latch guard on the outside to keep people from prying the door open after hours.  Pro - The guard will take more effort to breach. Con - I have not seen a latch protector yet that could not be breached.  Also, people are learning how to attack the key cylinder with a drill. A skilled burglar with a drill can gain entrance to your business in less than 60 seconds.
    2. Install a Security Exit Bar. Pro - I have not seen one defeated in my life. It is easy to install and burglars cannot see it. Con - It can only be legally used when the business is closed. However, use a lever with a latch guard for daytime security. This would be my choice from experience!
    3. Install a Detex 230D. This device uses a deadbolt and an alarm which will alert you to employees or customers who are leaving or opening the door unauthorized. Pro - From the outside, nobody knows it is there. Con - You have to unlock it by key every time an employee needs to go to the dumpster.
    4. Install a regular panic bar. I like the Von Duprin 22 series. Pro - It can be installed without outside trim so it is invulnerable to outside attack. Con - It does not have quite the holding force of a Security Exit Bar or a Detex 230D.
    5. Don't forget the commercial-grade peephole!

    Lock Spins in Commercial Glass Door

    If you a have a commercial glass door with a lock cylinder that is about 1 inch in diameter, you will have loosening. This happens because your door is being used! Not a bad thing! But, vibration causes all kinds of issues in doors and locks. Here is what you can do if your lock is spinning in the door. You will need a Phillips Screw Driver and a small, flat-head driver.

    1. Walk over to one of the businesses next to you and observe the position of the cylinder. You will note that the key insertion point is probably at the 6 o' clock position exactly. (Some door have in at 12 o' clock, but it is rare.) Also, make sure you are not looking at a door on the business where the lock cylinder has been turned upside down in order to disable the key operation on the outside. If in doubt, ask the store manager. 
    2. Open your door and look on the door edge and you will see a cover plate with three screws in a vertical line. Using a screwdriver, remove these screws and remove the plate.
    3. Look for a small, black set screw that sits flush into the lock, right next to the cylinder that is loose. Back the screw out counterclockwise two turns, but do not remove it.
    4. Grab the cylinder. It is a threaded lock cylinder and it screws in and out like a regular screw. Turn the lock to where the key insertion point is sitting right a 6 o' clock.  Tighten set screw. While you are at it, tighten both. You will see them side by side.  Replace plate.
    5. Since you are servicing the lock, take WD-40 and shoot the key hole. Also, with the deadbolt in the partially "out" position, angle the WD-40 can into the bolt hole and aim in up into the lock where you guess the back of the lock's key cylinder would be.

    Monday, October 10, 2011

    The Amazing Medium Grade Lever!

    If you have a business office and are looking to beef up the security on your office doors, you need look no further than the LSDA Grade 2 Leverset. Not only are these levers attractive, but they also come with LSDA's incredible 15 year warranty which covers materials and workmanship.  Available in brushed nickle, bright brass, or bronze, these levers will fit in any office decor. They come in the standard entry by key function for your office doors, storeroom function for electrical and janitor room doors, and classroom function that can be left unlocked by key or locked by. Finish off your restrooms with the privacy function and you are good to go!

    The LSDA Medium Grade Lever is compatible for home or business and is offered with the 2-3/8 latch for the home and the 2-3/4 latch for commercial applications. These latches have a 1/2 inch throw and include an ANSI 4-7/8 inch  by 1-1/4 inch strike. These levers will fit door that are 1-3/8 to 1-7/8 inches thick utilizing a standard 2-1/8 diameter hole. These levers are non-handed.

    If you are in a situation where children are hanging form the locks or employees get angry when the door is locked, consider ordering the lever with the clutch mechanism.  The clutch allows the locked outside lever to go through the opening motion without opening the door, thereby relieving pressure on the lever. The rigid model, however, is the one I use most.

    One of the most attractive features of these levers is that they can be through-bolted as an option.  In the event you install this lock on an exit door, this option is desirable. If you choose not to through-bolt this lever, you can use small self-tapping screws on the inside plate.  This will keep the lock from slipping around during vandalism. However, for inside applications, no through-bolting or additional screws is necessary.

    Locksmiths pay around $38 for these levers, but don't let the price fool you! I use this lock exclusively for small business, medium-duty applications and the results are great.  Expect to pay as much as $185 for an installation by Middle Tennessee locksmiths.

    Overall, I would choose this Grade 2 lock over all other competitors, just for the warranty alone.

    Sunday, October 9, 2011

    Exit Security Bar for the Commercial Backdoor

    I can remember one Murfreesboro, TN client who absolutely refused my advice regarding the security of his back door. I told him that, for under $200, he could have the best and cheapest piece of insurance he could ever imagine. All he could say to my advice was, "I cannot afford that."  Two weeks later, this man's back door was easily compromised and he lost $30,000 worth of goods in just under 4 minutes; and the theft occurred with the burglar alarm in full siren!

    One customer of mine in Murfreesboro, TN has this bar. But he is also in code violation because he has two deadbolts and a door lever as well.  His business was hit by would-be burglars four nights in a row. Both deadbolts were ripped out of the door as well as the door lever. The bottom of the door was slightly flared out at the bottom. The burglars never gained entry and the bar is still in excellent condition.

    In extreme environments, some of my clients in the music industry have two of these devices on each door of their storage warehouse!

    Consider the Exit Security Bar for your out-swinging commercial back door. Exit Security Bar is a device that will fit the 36, 42, and 48 inch door. They also have a device for the double door 72 inch opening and a model for in-swinging doors.  All parts are steel and come in an attractive gray finish.  The bars also come with standard L bolts for regular sized door jambs.  However, if your door jamb depth exceeds 6-3/4 inches, then you will need the extra long bolts.

    How easy is it to install this device?  I Install it in under 30 minutes!

    • First, you need a drill, drill bits, hammer, level, and pair of Vice Grips or socket/wrench set. I install these bars using a pair of Vice Grips.
    • Second, hold the appropriate bar against the door to the approximate height and mark the two bolt holes. Use a level or measure from the floor.
    • Third, drill the bolts holes through to door.  Insert the elevator bolts through the holes and set them with a hammer. When drilling, wobble out the inside holes a bit for maneuverability.
    • Fourth, install bar and use the nuts provided to tighten the bar.
    • Fifth, install the L bolts in the appropriate second bar, but do so loosely.  Attach this bar to the bar you attached first, tighten the L bolts nuts. Install warning sticker.
    There simply isn't a safer and more durable product on the market.  This product is far more secure than a deadbolt, panic bar, or lever.  If your back door has only a lever with a latch guard, you have no protection.  Most codes will not allow you to have two operating locks per emergency exit.  With the Exit Security Bar, you can keep your present door lever or panic bar. During operating hours though, the Exit Bar must be removed for safety reasons. Use this bar when the business closes for the day.

    Saturday, October 8, 2011

    Before You Hire a Locksmith on the Internet

    Just because a company has an advertisement on the internet doesn't guarantee you professional service. First, I will tell you what people looking for locksmiths online have experienced by clicking on paid advertising and then I will tell you how go about making sure you are safe before you schedule an online-advertising locksmith.

    Here is what can very easily happen to you.

    1.  You get a company run by people who do not do lock work. These companies only run advertisements in the top Internet slots and hire people they have never met to do the service.  These "locksmiths" have been known to be under-trained.  In one case, the locksmith had no key machine, gave the only key he had to the customer after the re-key, and the key would not even copy.  I was called in to clean up the mess. Do you want somebody re-keying your home or business who cannot be found tomorrow?

    2.  The top Internet ads always advertise a low service call fee. You will see $14, $15, or $19.  When you see this, run! You should know that nobody can cover costs with a fee like that.  The lock company will lead you to believe that your service project is going to be done inexpensively. In the end, however, what should have been an $85 job ends up costing you $375. (Actual example from a business on Middle Tennessee Boulevard in Murfreesboro, TN.)

    This is what you can do to protect yourself when hiring a locksmith online.

    1.  Ask for a firm price and do not sign the bill beforehand.  If the locksmith jacks the price up in the end and tells you that he already did the job, do not pay.  He will threaten to sue you, but simply tell him that you did not agree to the charges.  Because the locksmith is "shady", he does not want legal involvement. He will usually relent. 

    2.  Ask for his locksmith license number if your state requires licensing.  Or, tell the locksmith before he arrives that you will need to record his driver's license number before he begins to work.

    3.  Check his references and do know that references can be part of a scam.

    Friday, October 7, 2011

    Kwikset Smart Key Bump Resistant Review

    Kwikset is my favorite lock for low-cost residential applications.  In fact, I re-key them more often than any other house lock.  The new Kwikset Smart Key system is a wonderful concept in lock keying technology.  These locks are difficult to pick open, and that is a good thing. Once they are installed, you can re-key them yourself by going to Lowe's or Home Depot and asking for the Smart Key re-keying kit, pictured above.  When you decide to re-key these, be sure that you do not have any distractions because you want to do this accurately. Here is how you re-key these.

    1.  Get the re-key kit and have any duplicates made while you are at the hardware store.
    2.  Insert your old key, turn it 90 degrees to the right and stop. It does not matter if the lock is installed upside down.
    3.  Insert the tool and push until your hear/feel a click. Remove tool.
    4.  Without moving the key in any direction, remove it. Use your thumb to hold the key cylinder in place.
    5.  Insert the new key in the same position in which you removed the old.
    6.  Turn the new key back in the opposite direction and work it back and forth.

    Do note that there have been some problems in the past with this system.  I have had calls to houses where one year old locks were not serviceable.  Fun, fun, fun!

    In the event you mess it up and the keys no longer work, a locksmith can use a special tool to reset the lock. However, locksmith rates being what they are, just go and buy a new lock and have the guy at Lowe's set the new lock to the key you give him.

    Thursday, October 6, 2011

    What Nashville, TN Locksmiths Pay For Commerical Locks

    In this day and age, you need to know what a locksmith pays for the goods he is selling you. You can usually find this online, but I can make it simple for you.  With this information, you can make reasonable counter-offers. Remember, there is more to overhead than the wholesale price of a lock.  However, some locksmiths are selling glass door cylinders for $65 each and key copies for $4.00.

    Commercial Locks
    1. Round glass door cylinders and thumb-turns, generic - $5 to $8 each
    2. Adams-Rite style deadbolts for glass doors, generic - $13
    3. Grade 1 door closers, surface mounted - $49
    4. Von Duprin 22 Series panic bars without trim - $208
    4a. Von Duprin 22 Series outside trim - $108
    5. Door levers, Medium duty, generic - $30 to $60
    6. Door levers, Heavy Duty - $85 to $250 (Generic - Name brand)
    7. Bathroom levers, medium duty, generic - $40 to $65
    8. Key blanks, generic - .25 to .45 for common types
    9. Best style cores - $8 to $15
    10. Office door knobs, generic - $18.00 to $25
    11. Detex 230 Model - $150
    12. Detex EAX-500 - $95
    13. Medeco, Mul-T-Lock, Assa High Security Clinders - $45 to $65
    14. Exit Security Bar - $60
    15. Von Duprin 99 Series Exit Bar - $550
    16. Von Duprin Outside Trim - $220
    17. Von Duprin Guard-X Alarm Lock - $250
    18. Continuous Hinges - $95
    19. Kaba Mas Auditcon 2 Series Safe Lock 252 - $200
    20. Alarm Lock T2 Trilogy - $450
    21. Alarm Lock Narrow Style Access Lock - $400

    Avoid Car Opening Scams

    Car opening scams are happening continually. In fact, the car opening scams are the easiest to pull off because you, the customer, are locked out of your car and you are probably panicking.  When people panic, they tend to overlook significant details.  Hopefully, you are reading this in order to be prepared for the first (or next!) time you lock your keys in your car.  I am warning you! Just because somebody advertises on the Internet does not mean they are ethical!

    Here is how the scam works: You go to the yellow pages or the Internet and look under "locksmith".  You see the $14 - $19 service call and think to yourself, "Now that's a great price!"  You call the 1-800 number, or perhaps it is a local number.  A lady answers.  She tells you that the service call price is, in fact, $14 - $19; but she tells you that there is a small additional fee depending on differing situations.  Then you are told that the locksmith will call you. The locksmith shows up, opens your car, and presents you with a $200 bill. What do you do?

    • Never call a 1-800 number.
    • Never request a locksmith without a firm price over the phone. If you do not get a firm price, keep looking. The scams never give you a firm price so they can scam you!
    • If a locksmith presents you with a bill you did not agree to, do not pay.  Instead, offer what you think is reasonable.  Hold fast. Tell the locksmith that you will not pay the bill.  Tell him the average is about $65 for that service and that is all you will pay.  He may threaten to sue you, but do not given in!  After a few minutes, he will back down.
    • Never sign the bill without looking at the bill completely. Scam locksmiths often use their thumbs to cover the "new cost" on the bill, tricking you into signing. 
    • Get the locksmith's vehicle license plate, name, etc., and alert your state's Department of Commerce and Insurance.

    "How can I make my home less of a burglary target?"

    First, install deadbolts. Second, get a dog or make it look like you have a dog by putting a dogfood bowl by your most vulnerable entries.  Third, get an alarm system and use window stickers that indicate you have an alarm. If you cannot afford the alarm, get the stickers. You can also have a neighbor park one of their cars in your driveway if you will be away from home for any length of time. Of course, do not forget the light timers.  If you can implement these ideas, a burglar will just move on.  If, however, you still experience a break-in, consider the possibility that you were burgled by someone who knows you and your plans.

    "Why does my door bounce off the strike plate when I try to shut the door?"

    The latch is dry and needs a shot of WD-40.  If this does not work, the latch is broken.  You can go to your local hardware store and buy the proper latch.  Ask the salesperson to show you how to do this.  Before going, however, be sure to read the name of the lock from the face of the latch itself.  It may say Schlage, Kwikset, Callin, EZ Set, or Baldwin.

    "Why do I have to 'jiggle' my keys in order to get the lock to work?"

    Your key does not work properly because you are using a poor copy or a copy that has been made from a copy.  Keys are much like copier copies: whenever you copy a copy of a copy, you get poorer and poorer results.  Similarly, no key machine copies perfectly. As a key moves farther away from the original, the less accurate it becomes.  It could also be that your key tumblers have been worn down. Solution:  Find the original factory key and make copies from it.  If you cannot find one, you may need to re-key the lock.  Always ask your locksmith for a "factory original" when he re-keys.  Also consider whether or not your locks are old and worn. Sometimes the key-way itself is worn out and the key has too much wiggle room and cannot seat itself properly in order to activate the tumblers.